Beware check the leakage current.Kasa Smart Plugs are a great addition to any smart home as they allow you to control your appliances with voice commands or through your phone. ie they never turned off or flashed intermittently. The leakage was enough to power low-power items such as LED bulbs. I had initially used them around my house as I did not want these issues with relays and contacts :- ) However, I found that SSDs came with built-in snubbers which leaked rather a lot of current. Also, a note to those considering switching to a SSD. I suspect the IT equipment requires a snubber, I wonder if their one built into the p110? The lack of a snubber would explain the contact damage on a relay rated for 16A. I have another switching a 1KW heater on/off a few times a day no sign of bother from it. The failed unit switches a pile of IT equipment <200W on/off a few times a day. This failed p110 is one of eight I have around the house most are left on at all times and are just to measure power consumption. However, this is an extremely interesting article, as I expect I will ultimately have to replace my relay. I tapped each side of the Tapo p110 firmly against my desk which fixed things for the moment. Hmm, Just had the same stuck relay issue. The new relay cost £2.09 for a pack of two, so I now have a spare relay. The TE Connectivity, 5V dc Coil Relay SPNO, 16A Switching Current PCB Mount Single Pole, 1-2071556-2 closely matched the specifications, and I ordered a replacement from RS Components. The Churod relays only appear to be sold in quantities of 100 from China, so I looked for an alternative model. The contacts are rated at 16 Amps which is much higher than the current consumption of the TV and soundbar when in use. This is an SPST relay with a 12-volt coil. With the relay removed, I could find the model number, a Churod Electronics | A16-V-112DA2F,000. Removing the foam pad allowed access to the relay pins, and this was removed with the desoldering iron to clear the holes. Once the board has been removed, this will reveal the bottom of the board, which has a small foam block across the relay contacts, which appears to be insulation across the mains voltage contacts. These need to be heated with a soldering iron to remove the PCB from the case. Inside is the main printed circuit board with the live and neutral sockets and the relay on the right side.īelow the relay and earth connection are a pair of diagonal pins, which are the mains input for the board. The cover is held in place with several small plastic clips around the base, and once these have been released, the cover will lift away. To remove the cover, first, you need to use a thin flat blade to insert into the gap in the case and, working around the edge, gently prise the cover away from the plug pin side. This is the third smart plug which has failed when connected to the TV and soundbar, the previous two models were Samsung Smart Plug GP-WOU019BBDWG which are completely sealed, but the TP-Link KP115 has a small gap in the plastic case which indicated it would be possible to remove the cover to repair it. The internal relay was sticking closed and could only be released by banging the side of the smart plug, which would fix it for a few days and then stick again. In the past few weeks, the smart plug was showing as being turned off, but the mains power was still being supplied to the TV and soundbar. To reduce the power consumption when the TV is not being used, I was using the TP-Link Kasa Smart plug to turn off the mains supply when it is not in use and the smart plug also disconnects the power after 5 minutes of the TV and soundbar being on standby. I only watch a couple of hours of TV every day, so for over 22 hours each day, the TV and soundbar are on standby. For the past few months, I have been using a TP-Link Kasa Smart KP115 WiFi Plug with energy monitoring to control the mains power for my Samsung TV and Sony soundbar and sub-woofer.
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